Sunday, April 19, 2009

About Al Forno's Guide to Dining in Charleston


This is a completely personal, eminently biased guide to dining in Charleston, S.C.

Over the past two decades, Charleston has not only become a major tourist destination but has also earned a national reputation as one of America's up-and-coming culinary cities. Gourmet magazine, for instance, recently called us "a lovely port city that’s fast on its way to becoming a serious food capital."

I would argue that we arrived several years ago.

The restaurants included on this site are my (current) favorites in town. There are tons of restaurants not on this list, many of which I suppose are pretty good, but for some reason or another I just haven't found them appealing enough to make them regular haunts. I draw no particular line between high and low: you'll find both roadside hot dog stands and high-end restaurants that rival the best that NYC or San Francisco have to offer.

The hardest part is that new restaurants keep opening all the time--just about the time you think you've finally caught up on your list of "must-trys", six new places crop up. But, that's a good problem to have.

Here are my current list of highly recommended establishments, which are entered as blog posts. The posts are in no particular order, so use the Labels list to the right to seek out a particular type of dining.

Saturday, April 18, 2009

Iacofano's Italian Bar & Grill

626 Coleman Blvd.
Mt. Pleasant
(843) 881-2313

I'm a huge fan of John Iacofano's low key Italian deli and restaurant. The meatballs--whether served up on a hoagie or sliced in the middle of their cra-za-zy lasagne--are sublime, and everything is done up with just a little extra touch of quality, even as the restaurant remains calm and unassuming. Definitely a favorite haunt.

More: My CP Review of Iacofano's.

Dixie Supply Bakery & Cafe

62 State St.
Downtown
(843) 722-5650

Not to be missed. An unassuming looking little spot next to the Little Cricket on State St. They cook up some of the best biscuits, croissants, patty melts, and meat-n-three grub in town. Perfect for breakfast, and not bad for lunch or just some mid-morning snacks, either. Dixie is a gem.

More: My CP review of Dixie Supply.

Moose's Famous BBQ

1440 South Live Oak Drive (Hwy. 17-A)
Moncks Corner
(843) 899-4999

With barbecue chicken, pulled pork, and hands-down the best beef brisket to be found in the Lowcountry, Moose's is a carnival of eating. Pay as you enter, cash only, the buffet is not only loaded with tasty smoked meats but some damn good side items, too. Wear your eatin' pants with the extra-elastic waist. You'll need 'em.

More: My City Paper review of Moose's

Poe's Tavern

2210 Middle St.
Sullivan's Island
(843) 883-0083
http://www.poestavern.com

When I have friends in from out of town, Poe's is an old standby for lunch. Their burgers--hand-ground on premises, cooked to order, and served with fresh-cut fries--are out of this world, and with a zillion great beers on tap it's a perfect place to while away a beach afternoon. When I think Sullivan's Island, I think Poe's.

More: my CP blurb on the Hop Frog Burger.

La Fourchette

432 King St.
Downtown
(843) 722-6261
Serving Dinner, Mon-Sat

La Fourchette is unapologetically French and doesn't care if you like it or not. But, with pomme frites double fried in duck fat, old-school French favorites like cassoulet and coquille St. Jacques, and the best French wine list this side of Paris, you're bound to like it.

More: read about La Fourchette's fries

Bacco

976 Houston Northcutt Blvd.
Mt. Pleasant
(843) 884-6969

This is a Mt. Pleasant gem. If the roasted olives and housemade mozzarella aren't enough to make you swoon, the gnocchi will finish the job. And, for such good, authentic Italian food, it's very reasonably priced.

McCrady's

2 Unity Alley (just off of East Bay Street), downtown
(843) 577-0025
http://www.mccradysrestaurant.com/

If challenged to name my absolute favorite restaurant in town, it would have to be McCrady's. The atmosphere is a mix of old-Charleston and new-restaurateur-slickness: a couple of old buildings dating back to the 18th Century, linked together with the old brick and hardwoods preserved and a lot of fancy features like soaring skylights added. Chef Sean Brock is top dog in Charleston, blending fresh, local produce (grown on the restaurant's own farm out on John's Island and including not just vegetables but pigs, too) with molecular gastronomic wizardry. A meal at McCrady's is an experience to remember.

Fulton Five

5 Fulton St., downtown

This Italian spot is hidden away off of a side street. It's definitely cozy, and a great place to take a date.

FIG

232 Meeting Street, Downtown
843-805-5900
http://www.eatatfig.com

The home of Mike Lata, one of Charleston's celebrity chefs, FIG is a delightful bistro-style spot in the heart of downtown. Lata is a devotee of fresh, seasonal food, and all the dishes on the menu are uncomplicated and focus on the quality of the ingredients. The menu varies by season, but entrees include a range of fresh local fish along with meat selections such as roasted chicken, flat-iron steak, and veal sweetbreads. The stylish interior and friendly, well-informed wait staff make it a great spot to enjoy a really good meal.

Coast

Coast
39 D John Street, Downtown
(843) 722-8838
http://www.coastbarandgrill.com/

Very good fresh seafood. Coast specializes in local seafood. Try something from their oak-fired wood grill: it adds a smoky flavor to grilled fish that you can't get just anywhere. Plus, they have one of the best bars and most inventive cocktails of anywhere in town.

Al Di La

25 Magnolia Road. West Ashley.
843-571-2321
A great trattoria-style Italian restaurant with fresh pasta, homemade bread, and slow-cooked meats. Located in the West Ashley's funky Avondale district. Open for dinner Tuesday - Saturday.

39 Rue de Jean

39 Rue de Jean:
39 John St., Downtown
(843) 722-8881
http://www.39ruedejean.com/

French-style brasserie. Great atmosphere, great mussels, and really good food. There's such a relaxed, European feel about the place that I just enjoy sitting inside the place, watching all the people and action going on around me. A great bar, too, if you just want to stop in for drinks and appetizers. Over the years, the chefs have come and gone (including Fred Neuville, who's made quite a good thing for himself out at The Fat Hen), but I still have a soft spot in my heart for the stylishness of Rue.

The Wreck of the Richard and Charlene

The Wreck of the Richard and Charlene
106 Haddrell St, Mount Pleasant--off Shem Creek.
(843) 884-0052
http://www.wreckrc.com/

Definitely call and get directions--you'll never find it on your own, since they don't even have a sign. A complete dive, with plastic lawn tables and chairs and canned beer. And also the best, freshest mounds of fresh shrimp and scallops you'll ever eat. Not really high-end, but not cheap either. Takes cash only, so be sure to bring a pile of it.

Sunflower Cafe

Sunflower Cafe
2366 Ashley River Road/Highway 61 (West Ashley)

Don't understimate this small, unassuming looking restaurant in the corner of an shopping plaza off Ashley River Road. It looks like it would be a standard pancake-breakfast, meat-and-three lunch kind of place. But, the food is really fantastic.



The breakfast menu boasts a series of eggs benedict variations (including crab cakes and fried-green tomatoes), rich omlets, beignets, and french toast. For lunch, there's steak sandwiches made not with some cheap cut but tender filet(!), plus chicken and crabcake croissants, and a range of fresh salads.

The Sunflower is off the beaten path--way down Highway 61 past I-526. But, if you are heading out to Drayton Hall or Middleton Place, drop in and give it a try for breakfast or lunch (they close at 2:30 PM). It's one of my West Ashley favorites.

Philly's

Philly's
4650 Ladson Rd., Summerville
843 873-0776

Who would think it: a little place tucked away in a strip mall out in Summerville that serves great authentic Philly cheesesteaks. Run by the Castellucci family from South Philly, the restaurant's motto, emblazoned on the wall in large letters, is "The Public Appreciates Quality", and that pretty much says all you need to know.

These guys are in a serious throw down with D.B.'s for the best cheesesteaks in town.

Long Point Grill & The Mustard Seed

Long Point Grill
479 Long Point Rd, Mount Pleasant
843-884-3101

The Mustard Seed
1036 Chuck Dawley Blvd, Mount Pleasant
843-849-0050

I'm cutting corners grouping these two together, but they are both operations run by Mount Pleasant's Sal Parco, and both offer similarly solid but sophisticated fare for reasonable prices. From risotto and polenta to fried chicken and burgers, the hardest part of eating at Long Point Grill and The Mustard Seed is trying to choose from a menu crowded with intriguing options that always seem to pay off. Both server dinner, but they are great spots for lunch, too.

Jack's Cosmic Dogs

Jack's Cosmic Dogs
2805 Highway 17 North, Mount Pleasant, SC
843-884-7677.
Open 7 days a week, 11 am to 8 pm.

Jack's Cosmic Dogs is a Lowcountry joint that was created as a throwback to the old roadside hotdog stands of earlier years. The building is retro-cool, with cinder block walls painted bright yellow outside and bright red inside. The 1960s-style tables come with mismatched metal and vinyl chairs, and you order at a stainless steel-fronted counter with wooden top. An old-school ice bin offers Sundrop and RC Cola in real glass bottles, and there's a Galaga machine in the corner. It even has a screen door.



The hot dogs are sizzled up fresh on a flattop griddle and served not on a plain old bun but on a big seeded roll For a classic chili dog, try the Atomic dog--chili, onions, spicy mustard (pictured below). If you're more adventurous, there are several dogs with a great blue cheese coleslaw on them, including the Cosmic dog with the slaw and Jack's homemade sweet potato mustard. The french fries are hand-cut from fresh potatoes, which is the only way fries should be made.

Hominy Grill

Hominy Grill
207 Rutledge Ave., Downtown
(843) 937-0930
http://www.hominygrill.com/

Robert Stehling's top-notch "neighborhood restaurant," which features classic southern recipes cooked from scratch with fresh local ingredients. This may well be the best Southern cooking in the world. Stehling took home the 2008 James Beard Award for Best Chef in the Southeast.

The Glass Onion

The Glass Onion
1219 Savannah Hwy., West Ashley
(843) 225-1717
www.ilovetheglassonion.com

The Glass Onion serves up good, solid Southern cooking with a slow-food sensibility. Top-quality items like Anson Mills grits and Benton's bacon are regulars on the menu. From the authentic New Orleans-style po-boys to the massive braised Pork Shank, you won't be disappointed.

For more: my Charleston City Paper review.

Gaulart & Maliclet (G&M Fast and French)

98 Broad Street, Downtown
(843) 577-9797
http://www.fastandfrench.org

The real name of this little spot is "Gaulart and Maliclet Cafe", but no one in Charleston seems to be able to remember and/or pronounce that name, so most people just call it "Fast French". I've never had lunch or dinner there (and I really should--the menu looks great), but I often stop in for a croissant and coffee on Saturday mornings. They're now celebrating their 25th year in business, which is a pretty damn good milestone for a Charleston restaurant.

Bessinger's Barbecue

Bessinger's Barbecue
1602 Savannah Highway/US 17 (West Ashley)
843-556-1354
http://www.bessingersbbq.com

Though they are a barbecue joint and have great barbecue, my wife and I usually end up getting cheeseburgers because, without a doubt, Bessingers has the best cheeseburgers in town, hands down. If you're from out of town, though, I would recommend trying their barbecue. You can get a good cheeseburger almost anywhere; Bessinger's is an exceptional example of the mustard-based style, a variety unique to South Carolina. I also recommend getting one of the plates with hash and rice, for hash is the uniquely South Carolina side item. It's pork and various pork parts (don't ask--you're better off not knowing) minced up fine with a lot of spices and served like a very thin stew over rice: fantastic.

Bessinger's Barbecue on Highway 17



A heaping plate of mustard-based barbecue with hash from Bessinger's

Charleston's best cheeseburger

Andolini's

Andolini's Pizza

82 Wentworth St. (Downtown)

414 West Coleman Blvd. (Mt. Pleasant)

1117 Savannah Hwy. (West Ashley)

967 Folly Road (James Island)

6610 Rivers Ave (North Charleston)

http://www.andolinis.com/

A great independent pizzaria. Makes New York-style thin crust pies. You can get two slices of cheese pizza and a draft PBR Budweiser for five six seven bucks.

Okay, it was a lot cooler with a PBR and two slices for a Lincoln, but it's still pretty damn good.